A clever instance of reverse psychology: this is in fact the place where many of my most hard earned head complaints have disappeared into a sly morning after tonic - my number one hangover hideout this side of Kazimierz. Tucked away just south of the main market square, leave the swarming droves behind and find refuge in this cosy alcove of a cafe. If you're in no fit state to be seen, this is one of the only places in the Old Town where I don’t feel conspicuous in my own company. Depicting outlandish scenes of Cracovian street life, a stream of cartoonish murals are a constant source of amusement. Behold, for instance, a humble, typically overweight Krakow pigeon ejecting a piwo (beer) from its rear, or even a gaggle of local broom-straddling dames, smoking fags, knocking back booze and catching up on the latest gossip no doubt. A good spot for keeping a low profile (providing you don’t sit at the window), and a very decent place for a covert recovery pint after a heavy night. Don’t be surprised to catch me in here nursing a beer and a bleary eyed look of puzzled angst, now that I've given the game away. Innocuous music, friendly staff, small but strategically placed and pleasant to boot. And they have a toilet.

5 / 5

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