If it weren't for the hordes of tourist traipsing up to this marvellous wooden 'schronisko' in the heart of the Polish Tatra Mountains, you would do well to find a better setting for a gothic horror movie. Throw in a tortured author with writer's block, lashings of snow and no electricity, and you'd have The Shining. Instead, the magic of this extraordinary century-old building is somewhat dulled by the relentless sale of tourist knick-knacks and an horrendous vending machine that doles out medals celebrating the Pope's visit to Morskie Oko over 10 years ago - yours for just 6 zloty a pop.

There is, however, a way to enjoy this place as it should be. Forget going up in the height of summer, but rather head up there (a 2 hour walk from the closest car park at Lysa Polana) in November, mid-week. Escape the crowds and revel in this natural amphitheatre of the Tatra mountains. Dress up warmly, order up some home-made bigos (cabbage and sausage stew), extraordinary-tasting tea made with mountain water, and pat yourself on the back for being alone with your partner - and not Jack Nicholson.

5 / 5

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