The Gay Hussar
- Venue type: Eat
- Subcategory: Hungarian
- Location: Greek Street 2, London, United Kingdom
- E-mail:
- Website: http://www.gayhussar.co.uk/index.asp
- Wifi: No idea
- Wheelchair access: No idea
About The Gay Hussar
Given the name and the location in London's Soho district, travellers could be forgiven for thinking that this is some kind of naughty hangout for Habsburg fetishists. However, chaps looking for chaps (in Austro-Hungarian uniforms) are in for a letdown. But never fear though, as the charm of The Gay Hussar is such that unwitting arrivals won't feel crestfallen for long.
Originally opened in 1953, when gay was generally used to mean jolly, Victor Sassie's restaurant is one of London's most enduring eating holes. Rather curiously for a haunt that's heavy on nostalgia for a lost aristocratic world, it became a favourite with the Old Labour elite, making it a veritable den of champagne socialism. But let's not get bogged down in politics.
Besides the wistful pre-war mood, the main draw here is the Hungarian cuisine (and booze). London doesn't get much snow these days, but ideally you'd pitch up here on an icy winter's evening having just fought a duel with some insolent Austrian officer.
That said, the Gay Hussar has its faults. First, the criminal refit that chucked out the blood red banquettes. At a stroke, the restaurant tottered away from Transylvanian gentleman's club towards French bistrot. What's more, overkill in the celebrity department has meant that hussars are now losing the battle for wall space against caricatures of famous guests. But all in all, this remains a sturdy choice if you're curious about Central European cuisine.
Rating:
Originally opened in 1953, when gay was generally used to mean jolly, Victor Sassie's restaurant is one of London's most enduring eating holes. Rather curiously for a haunt that's heavy on nostalgia for a lost aristocratic world, it became a favourite with the Old Labour elite, making it a veritable den of champagne socialism. But let's not get bogged down in politics.
Besides the wistful pre-war mood, the main draw here is the Hungarian cuisine (and booze). London doesn't get much snow these days, but ideally you'd pitch up here on an icy winter's evening having just fought a duel with some insolent Austrian officer.
That said, the Gay Hussar has its faults. First, the criminal refit that chucked out the blood red banquettes. At a stroke, the restaurant tottered away from Transylvanian gentleman's club towards French bistrot. What's more, overkill in the celebrity department has meant that hussars are now losing the battle for wall space against caricatures of famous guests. But all in all, this remains a sturdy choice if you're curious about Central European cuisine.
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