Anglophiles may dream of turning a corner on a country lane and finding a thatched pub with ruddy-faced locals, lashings of homemade cider, and perhaps a bearded druid or two chomping on a pork pie. Likewise, Brits with a fondness for Italy hanker for the perfect trattoria - the kind of haunt that doesn't find its way into the fancy guides. There, the maitre d' will welcome you like a long lost friend, and you won't need to bother with a menu (the waiter simply knows what's best and there's no point in arguing). Settimio all' Arancio styles itself ristorante, but it ticks all the boxes of the classic, family-run trattoria. Haunches of parma ham hang from the ceilings, and the decor is utterly impervious to fashion. Above all, the food is fantastic, served by staff with unpretentious passion. A joy.

4.5 / 5

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