Rdza started off as a hip bar for the more forward-thinking of Krakow's student community, before going further to become one of the city's liveliest nightspots. Girls with hourglass figures flirted with the first wave of the British stag parties and house and breakbeat tunes had everyone shaking their booties until way past bedtime. Then came the slide. No doubt many factors and management blunders contributed, but nothing symbolised Rdza's fall from grace so much as the ridiculously tacky cage installed on the dancefloor. A terrible nineties throwback, which, apart from lowering the tone, took a considerable chunk of the already diminutive dancing space, it had all the hallmarks of a desperate measure. The cool kids left, the cuties deserted and before you knew it Rdza was a kielbasa fest of moronic thugs dancing to cheesy techno, pissing in the sink and punching each others' lights out. Thankfully the dark days are at an end, but although Rdza now represents a decent night out it has never quite recaptured those initial salad days. C'est la zycie.

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